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Fabric, Thread, and Needle Combinations

Confused about which thread goes with which fabric - and how about that needle? Relax! Here's a simple chart that should help sort it out for you.

 

Fabric Type Thread Type Needle
  General Purpose Top Stitching Machine Handwork
Very lightweight: Batiste, Chiffon, Organza, Voile and similar fabrics Very fine or embroidery Very fine or embroidery 9/65 9 or 10
Lightweight: Challis, Chambray, Crepe/Crepe de Chine, Eyelet, Gauze, Georgette, Interlock, Jersey, Seersucker, Silk, Taffeta and similar fabrics All purpose blends and 100% natural threads including silk All purpose blends and 100% natural threads including silk 11/75 8 or 9
Medium-weight: Broadcloth, brocade, chino, chintz, corduroy, flannel, linen, pique, satin, shantung, suiting, sweatshirt, swimsuit, terry, velour, velvet and similar fabrics All purpose blends and 100% natural threads including silk Topstitching, buttonhole and twists 11/75 or 14/90 7 or 8
Medium-to-Heavyweight: denim, double knit, drapery, fake-fur, fleece, gabardine, leather, quilted, ticking, twill, upholstery and similar fabrics Topstitching, buttonhole, twists, and upholstery Topstitching, buttonhole, twists, and upholstery 14/90 or 16/100 6
Heavyweight: canvas, ducking, sailcloth, upholstery and similar fabrics Topstitching, buttonhole, twists, and upholstery Topstitching, buttonhole, twists, and upholstery 18/110 1 - 5
     
Specific Sewing Thread Needle
Quilting by Hand Cotton or blend hand quilting Hand Quilting Betweens
7 - 12
Quilting by Machine Cotton, poly-blend, fine embroidery, and monofilament Machine 14/90
Applique by Hand Cotton, poly-blend Hand Quilting Between
8 or 9
Applique by Machine Rayon, silk, embroidery, cotton, poly-blend Machine 11/75
Machine Embroidery Rayon, silk, embroidery, cotton, poly-blend Machine 11/75
Techniques
 
The Art of Fabric Collage: An Easy Introduction to Creative Sewingby Rosemary Eichorn
The Art of Fabric Collage
by Rosemary Eichorn

 

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