Sewing a Perfect
Satin Stitch
The newer sewing machines have a
built-in satin stitch that is either
a satin stitch or an applique stitch.
Nearly all sewing machines built
in the last 30 years or so have
a zigzag stitch that can be adjusted
to make a satin stitch so you can
satin stitch with both old and
new sewing machines.
The secret to a good satin stitch
is a combination of tension
and stitch length.
The newer computerized machines automatically
set the tension for satin stitch;
however you can override it in most
cases. This is especially important
when you are sewing with metallic
threads.
To find the right combinations of
tension and stitch length, practice on
a scrap of fabric with a piece of
stabilizer behind it. A lot.
How to Sew a Satin Stitch
 The tension is correct when the
upper threads wrap around to the
back with a bit of it showing on
either side or even one side of the
bobbin thread. No bobbin thread shows
on the top of the fabric.
 If the bobbin thread pulls to the
top of the fabric, the tension is
too tight and some of the bobbin
thread will show on the right side
of the fabric.
The tension is too loose if no bobbin
thread shows anywhere on the fabric.
In this case, the bobbin thread is
not anchoring the stitch and tugging
on it can easily pull it out.
Write down the settings in
your sewing machine manual or a notebook
you keep by your machine so they
will be handy when you begin your
project.
Sewing Squares and Rectangles
By starting the satin stitch in
the center of a line rather than
in the corner, it is much easier
to match up at the end.
Sewing Corners
Sew to the edge of the applique. Place the needle in the down position,
pivot the fabric and line up the
applique again to sew down the next
edge.
Then raise the needle and the presser
foot slightly. Move the applique
a sewing thread or two towards the
rear of the sewing machine. Lower
the presser foot, roll the needle
down into the outside edge of the
applique and begin to sew.
This technique prevents a sewing
thread or two from hanging over the
edge of the corner and makes the
corners look square.
Sewing Circles
Large circles are easy to
sew because they can often
be sewn without stopping.
Smaller circles need more care.
Sew them a few stitches at a time.
Since the presser foot is designed
to sew in a straight line, it is
necessary to pivot around the arc
of the circle. Do this by rolling
the needle down on the outside edge
of the applique, raising the presser
foot a little and turning the fabric
slightly to begin sewing again. Repeat
the process until the circle is complete.
Rolling the needle down along the
outside edge before pivoting prevents
the fabric from moving. When the
needle is in the up position, it
is more difficult to position the
fabric properly to keep the circle
from becoming distorted.
Sewing Points
The computerized machines
make sewing points difficult.
They go down in width increments
of .05 and do not have an over-ride
to go in smaller decreases like
the older machine will do. If the
newer machine has different positions
for the needle, the points can
be decreased on one side, then
switch the needle position to the
other side and gradually increase
the width of the stitch.
Most of the time this is more work
than I want to do, so this is my
version of a point which on closer
observation is not pointed
at all.
Satin stitch to the end of the point.
Roll the needle down, raise the presser
foot slightly and turn the applique,
lining it up to sew down the other
side. Hold the fabric steady and
roll the needle to the other side
of the applique point. Now begin
to sew down the other side of the
point. You will sew over a few stitches
in the process.
Other Stuff
- The faster you
sew the easier it is to guide the
applique under the needle. Try
it on a scrap of fabric and see.
- Use your fingertips to
guide the fabric. Regardless of
how fast or slow you sew, too much
pressure on the fabric prevents
it from moving easily under the
needle.
- Always use a stabilizer behind
the applique. It prevents the satin
stitch from rippling and distorting.
|
