Applique' Sewing with Metallic
Threads
Nearly all metallic threads have
a polyester core that’s wrapped
with a thin layer of metallic material.
It shreds and
breaks easily. We
have worked with it for several years
with results ranging from pulling
our hair out to wow - this sure is
easy! Here are some of the best techniques
we’ve learned.
Metallic Thread
At the factory the
thread is wound onto the spools while
they are in an upright position,
so they seem to sew best if they
are spooled off the same way. Use
a thread stand or cone holder to
pull the thread up through a hook
and over into your sewing machine.
Thread nets are helpful, especially
with larger spools because they keep
the thread from spooling off too
fast.
Occasionally the thread
is stretched and packs onto
the spool while it is being wound
so no matter how it is sewn, it will
break or shred. Sometimes pulling
off a few yards helps; however, chances
are it is going to be unusable so
either throw it away or exchange
it for another spool.
Tension and Stitch Length
The best tension for
satin stitching with metallic thread
is about a 2 or 3 on most machines.
These are the settings used to sew
appliques or buttonholes. Lengthen the
stitch from a 2 to a 2.5 or 3. By
loosening the tension and lengthening
the stitch, there is less chance
of the thread making a "bird’s
nest" (packing in one
place) and breaking. Practice on
a scrap of fabric before sewing to
insure best results.
Needles
Metafil and Metallica needles
are designed for metallicand other
hard-to-sew threads. The eyes have
been smoothed to eliminate burrs
that cause shredding or breakage.
This process also makes them more
expensive. The eyes of machine embroidery
needles have been smoothed more than
regular sewing machine needles but
not the same degree as the metallic
needles. Use a 90 embroidery needle
rather than a 75 for best results.
Satin stitching through
quilted fabric is difficult but not
impossible. Use a denim needle size
90 or 100 and sew slowly to keep
shredding and breakage to a minimum.
Buy Metafil and Metallica
needles at your local sewing center
or through sewing notions catalogs,
like Nancy’s Notions or Clotilde’s.
Lubricants
Consult your sewing
machine dealer before using any thread
lubricants. They can damage your
machine if used improperly. |
